You might know Chris Black as a fixture of the media elite who has had his hands in too many fashion projects to count. He’s also the co-host of How Long Gone, and now he has a new project, an all-American brand making easy-to-wear staples called Hanover.

Chris Black starting Hanover is a smart step towards the growth of his own personal brand, I mean, he has all of the right pieces and connections to make an idea like that work, so why not try?

But what happens when you let someone of this caliber of influence lean into their connections? You might just end up with a well-polished vanity project right out of the gate, and because of that, the stakes are that much higher. But if the clothes are actually good, then maybe it’s worth paying attention to what Hanover is doing.

In the case of Hanover and its association with Chris, I’m more focused on the clothes themselves. Yes, Chris has the clout to make this brand cool, but are the clothes actually good?

Hanover’s ethos is all about simple American made clothing that is below $300. To me it seems that this is a brand that is made for men in their late 30s to early 40s that have done their fair share of experimenting with fashion already, and are now looking for simple clothes that they can wear everyday without having to think about them.

The marketing is obviously geared towards that age group, with a focus on the specific subcultures of “American-cool” with references to art, music, and people that are part of the same community that Chris has been navigating through for decades.

It’s polished, it feels premium, and it does this in a way that makes it feel like a secret club filled with cool people that you can actually be a part of. That’s what makes Hanover’s brand compelling; not everyone might be invited to the table, but diving into the world of Hanover can make you feel like you’re in the same room.

Subscribe now

Leave a comment

Ok, you get the vibe, but what about the actual clothes?

From a quick glance; prices seem solid, everything is made exclusively in the USA using natural cottons — except the now sold out carabiner. I mean for stuff like that, you have to go overseas, that’s understandable.

Anyway, some items are better than others in my opinion, but the bigger question is; could Hanover become a genuine alternative for those that shop at spots like J.Crew, Uniqlo, or Madewell for example?

THE JEANS

For a new brand, Hanover has over 45 items that you can shop directly on the website — we’re talking sweatshirts, oxfords, basic tees, denim, hats, and even boxers. That’s a pretty strong selection considering the brand has only been around for a few months.

I was recently working on a letter for pants and denim for tall boys, you know, 34” - 36” inseams. To my surprise, Hanover jeans come in big sizes with 34” inseams — a detail that is often overlooked by new and even existing brands. That detail alone was enough to really grab my attention to try this brand out for myself.

Chris told me that he wears the Drift Jeans in black almost everyday, and after trying out a pair of the Wander Jeans myself, I actually believe that he wears those daily. I mean, the denim is really comfortable, fits great, and has a nice dark wash that pairs well with almost everything in my wardrobe — the success rate at which these jeans fall on any shoes first try is also incredible.

The jeans themselves are made with deadstock denim sourced from Cone Mills in North Carolina, one of the greatest denim mills that has supplied brands like Levi’s for over 100 years. Long story short; the fabric is quality.

For around $160, the Hanover denim feels like a very solid choice for an everyday denim that fits and feels great right out of the bag. No need to break them in or pre-soak them. Just put them on and you’re ready to take on the world.

THE LONG SLEEVE

Right off the bat I was skeptical about the wide collar on the Staple Long sleeve, I know what that type of collar looks like on me, and I don’t like it. To some it makes sense, but I’m skinny so it just ends up looking weird around the shoulders — the collar would create these points around the shoulder that I couldn’t get rid of.

With that being said, the washed cotton on this is insanely soft, which makes me think that this could be the perfect shirt for the beach or cottage. And in that case, I actually would prefer a collar that’s a bit wider just to let the breeze in. It’s less about the fit and more about the comfort in this case.

Another detail that Hanover does well is make short cuffs on all of their long sleeve products — it’s a small detail, but it looks way better than the traditional longer cuff you see elsewhere.

Overall, is this long sleeve a buy? I’m still on the fence. There’s a specific type of person that will prefer a wider collar, which in that case would make this a solid purchase. The cotton is extremely soft which makes it more wearable in certain situations, but for someone who prefers a tighter neckline will probably not love the overall fit at the neck.

The tees from Hanover all have that same collar, which I believe is trying to recreate the feeling of that already worn in, extremely old t-shirt that you’ve been wearing for a decade. I wish that there was an option for the same fabrics in a tighter collar for someone like myself though.

THE POLO

This one is a hit — although subtle, the lowercase h logo thats embroidered on the left chest could be removed. Let the polo speak for itself, because it’s a good fit, has a small collar that is fun to pop, and does make me feel like I’m ready to converse with the media elite at an 6pm to 8pm function.

Jokes aside, this is a very solid polo that I can see become my daily for the foreseeable future. It’s also perfect for the golf course — something I’ve been dabbling in more recently, so I need the fits to match.

If you’re looking for a simple comfortable polo, this is going to be a great purchase for around $120. Besides the Wander jeans, this polo is definitely my favorite item from them so far.

The Staple Polo is available in both long and short sleeves in a few faded colors.

THE VERDICT

Hanover has started off on a strong foot; the products feel great on body, and they are made well enough where the price makes sense. It’s going to be interesting to see how new products continue to evolve; I’m sure collaborations of sorts are in the pipeline, which will also help solidify the brand’s image.

From my short experience, I think there’s a lot of potential as long as they keep those prices relatively low. Hanover isn’t trying to be Fashion, it’s about making clothes we’re all familiar with in a way that doesn’t require much thinking. You know exactly what you’re getting everytime you shop here.

“Oh I need a simple button-up, but I don’t want to go to Uniqlo or J.Crew”. That’s where Hanover comes into play. It’s a solid substitute.

Will it work for everyone? Probably not, but I think the lower price point is enough for people to try the brand out for themselves so they can make their own decision. Jeans are definitely worth it, that polo is also awesome. Definitely now more curious to try out some of the button ups as well.

Despite being created by someone with a lot of connections and fame, Hanover proves itself as a solid contender in the menswear zeitgeist, and it’s something that is worth keeping a closer eye on.

Shop Hanover directly on their website here.

Follow Hanover on Instagram here.

Share

Leave a comment

UP NEXT:

Planning a trip to Japan? Check out my extensive shopping guide to Tokyo here.

Exploring the most fanatical fashion collectors here.

There are way too many pants online that are being sold without any measurement details. I’m lucky that I come in a standard size of 32x32, but not everyone is built by the default measurement system.

While I was working on a letter dedicated for pants for the tall boys, I realized that online shopping has completely dropped the ball on providing the necessary details needed for an easier shopping experience. Measurements on pants are lacking all across the board; I see brands selling pants without providing inseam measurements, I mean, what are we doing here?

Having measurements for all products is definitely important, but not having them for pants should be criminal. If you’re reading this and work at a brand or a store that doesn’t provide the proper pant measurements, please, fix that. You’ll probably start selling more pants online.

A lot of of my tall friends and readers have been asking for recommendations for pants that fit. We’re talking about 34” to 36” inseams. Now, since our resources are limited, we have to work together on this one. Today’s guide highlights pants and denim that I know has sizes for taller people. If you see something that’s missing in terms of style or brands making good quality options, then by all means, drop the suggestions in the comments below. Let’s build a solid guide for big pants that we can keep coming back to.

Leave a comment

Subscribe now

CHEATING THE SYSTEM

To be honest, how you wear your pants can make traditional sizes feel longer than they actually are. I’m 6’3 and I usually wear a 32” inseam pant, which would normally translate to a more flood fit at the bottom — you know, where the pants end just above the ankle, revealing most of the sock. But I don’t really have hips, so that means I can wear them slightly below the hip to give myself some extra length. That slight sag gives me an extra 2 inches in length making it seem like a 34” inseam.

Now, I know that most people tend to wear their pants just above the hips and are not built like a pencil, but if you’re on the slender side, you could get away by sizing up in the waist to let them naturally fall just underneath your hips — if your body type allows this, of course.

Maybe you’re not looking to perform magic by faking how the pants fit your body; you want pure length in a way that you can wear them how they are supposed to fit. If that’s you, then I have a bunch of 34”to 36” inseam recommendations that are worth your money. These pants actually come with proper measurements, so you can make sure the fit works — of course taking the time to see these in-person will yield even better results.

Just so we got our knowledge sharp before we dive in; many brands measure in cm, so look out for inseam lengths around 86.5 cm to get that 34”.

NN.07

A Danish hero that’s providing an array of cuts and styles with 34” and even 36” inseams. Huge selection and size runs of both denim and trousers, making this one of the best options for the tall boys to find a pair of pants that works for them.

Check out their full selection directly on their site here.

ANOTHER ASPECT ANOTHER JEAN 3.0

Read more

Where I bought a pair of my favorite denim right now for $150.

I spoke to chef Chuck Cruz about what gear he’s currently obsessed with here.

Sometimes I think about the need for me to constantly suggest stuff to buy. I mean how many recommendations can I really give, right? But then I look at what the other clothing suggestions online look like these days, and I suddenly start feeling like Batman who’s seen his Bat-Signal.

I’m not looking to point fingers, but we are living in an age of fashion discussion that seems so absolutely basic at times that it feels as though we’re actually moving backwards in style.

Alas, what are we going to do? On my end, I’m just going to continue what I do through the blog because I believe that the recommendations I provide, even if they happen often at times, serve people now and tomorrow. SNL is a global enterprise that is enjoyed around the globe, so why take that away from the people? These recommendations also support independent shops that are operated by great people that deserve our support.

Today’s letter has a bunch of heavy hitters that have come across my desk that continue to fuel our unnecessary spending habits: exclusive info on a couple of really great sales happening right now, where to get loopwheel tees under $40, incognito flip-flops, affordable made-in-america hoodies, hats that won’t make you look like everyone else, and more great recommendations.

Subscribe now

Share

THE FIT OF THE SUMMER?

A nice little button-up and free flowing pants that sit just right on some leather shoes seems to be the it fit in menswear right now—the jokes are certainly making it seem that way at least.

What seperates the boys from the men though is the overall vibe that’s achieved from these items coming together. That effortless look that feels like you didn’t even think about it when you put it together. While these levels of steeze are achievable naturally through your personality, the lack of ability to effortlessly wear clothes can be offset by dabbling into the high-end versions of these classic garments—although that’s a temporary fix that won’t get you far.

Personality > expensive clothes. Remember that.

New drop from Ernie Palo on Centre Commercial definitely piqued my interest when I saw this look. I mean, it’s pretty basic, yes, but it’s styled well. It gives off that effortlessly thrown on vibe that most fashion enthusiasts yearn to achieve naturally.

Ernie Palo is a Japan-based brand that started out in 2021 with the goal of creating familiar garments using high-quality fabrics—a mission that most brands have these days, but I’m not mad about it, if it’s good then I’m down!

Ernie Palo seems to have a myriad of styles for both men and women available across various shops around the world. Colbo was an early adopter of the brand, which you can discover at their shop in New York to get a better idea what they are all about. Neighbor is currently having a sale on their Ernie Palo selection on the site here.

Either way, definitely an interesting brand to check out if you’re looking for luxury without the bells and whistles, and more importantly, it’s a brand that I would say is in the IYKYK style category, which is always a plus—I’m simply not trying to wear what everyone else is wearing.

I’VE BEEN INFLUENCED

I’ve been getting got by IG posts recently… Jound just posted this showing off a couple of their coreline basics, and now I have a pair of their 2000s sweatpants in my cart. These have the ideal fit I’m looking for: good room in the thighs with a slightly tapered cut that doesn’t scrunch too much at the bottom.

I’m curious to know how they’re going to hold up against what I believe are the best sweatpants I’ve found under $150 though.

A GOOD T-SHIRT UNDER $50

It’s pretty rare these days to find a good quality t-shirt that doesn’t cost above $80. So when I see a brand that’s making loopwheel tees that only cost $30, I have no choice but to ask questions.

Read more

In today’s letter we’re going to find out what those styles are, shorts I’m looking for myself this summer, and a list of shorts from some of my favorite brands that I’m enjoying currently.

Subscribe now

Share

SHORTS ARE GETTING LONGER

Let’s get one thing straight; a lot of styles of shorts are widely acceptable right now. The younger gen is continuing their interest in oversized, below the knee shorts with a larger leg opening that gives them a wide cone effect on body.

Menswear enthusiasts are starting to catch up as well by adding more length to their shorts. Pleated shorts that end at the knee are becoming more common in this space—menswear is looking to channel the iconic Giorgio Armani in shorts vibe this summer.

Shorts are getting longer in general, with even capri cuts starting to show up on the feed more frequently—they’re even making headlines in womenswear. There’s a lot of discourse around these online. Many people like them, while many despise the return of what they believe is an “ugly moment in fashion”.

Is there a space for them in the current zeitgeist? If you’re bold enough to dive into the extremes of fashion, then you might have fun with this style right now—I mean, a lot of brands are starting to make their own capris, with even high-end brands like Lemaire creating their own versions, which signals that the interest is definitely there.

Leave a comment

Does that mean that short length shorts are out this season? No. While the longer cut is a style that’s wildly popular right now, the 5” and even the 3” inseam short is still just as popular as they were in menswear years ago. They mostly live in the performance world, but that shouldn’t stop anyone from rocking what they want to rock. What I’m saying is, there is space for both to exist in your wardrobe.

I find that a lot of people look for one style of short and commit to that for the entire summer. Why limit yourself to just one type of short? Shorts should come in all shapes and sizes. Having a range will allow you to get a bit creative with your looks when survival from the heat becomes more of a priority.

Plus, getting outside and doing some sort of physical activity is very much the mood this summer, and every summer for that matter, and you’re not going to do that in some long denim shorts. Have variety that you aren’t afraid to lean into across your daily style.

MY PICKS

While deciding which short archetype to subscribe to this summer, I put together a list of various short styles that do different things for different occasions. We got the shorts for the daily life, lounge styles for the summer, beach options, lightweight fabrics for those who want breathability, and so on.

Most importantly though, they all look steezy, and would make great additions to anyone’s wardrobe.

Metalwood is always a good place to start if you are looking for variety in one place. They currently have a range of shorts on their site from swim to that classic menswear look that we talked about earlier.

Personally, my eyes are set on the Digital Hombre short, because I’ve been looking for some new ball shorts, and I’m down for a wilder pattern in my rotation. The Seersucker Spa Short is also worth looking at; I like the wider cut with the elastic waistband—that light-flow breathability!

Read more

When I first got the follow from Chuck Cruz, I was beyond hyped. I’ve been watching his videos for inspiration for meals at home for a long time, and even though I don’t really come close to his level of execution, it’s the ideas and nature of his content that have me coming back. Chuck’s content is executed in a perfectly relaxed way, where most of the time, I end up being hungry after watching his videos past midnight.

Chuck also has his own newsletter were you can enjoy his collection of amazing recipes all in one place.

I geek about food just as much as I do with clothing, so when I saw that Chuck was also a gear head, I had to get him on the blog. So, I did what anybody would do: get in the car and drive to New Jersey to kick it with him, eat some of his amazing food, and check out what gear he’s currently obsessed with.

In today’s letter, Chuck also put together a recipe for a Braised Beef Shank, a dish he made while I stayed at his place, and Hailee — his partner who’s also a fantastic chef — contributed with her own Parsnip Sticky Toffee Pudding. Needless to say, the meal was insane. You can find both recipes at the bottom of today’s letter.

Subscribe now

14 ITEMS WITH CHUCK CRUZ

Words by: Chuck Cruz

Subscribe now

Leave a comment

THE RECIPE

Coconut and Sherry Braised Beef Shanks

Serves 4

Braised Beef Shanks

• 3 pounds beef shanks, about 2-inch thick discs (about 3 large pieces)

• Neutral oil

• Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste

• 3 medium shallots, peeled and halved

• 6 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

• 1 2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced

• 4 bird’s eye chili, stem removed

• 1 tablespoon crushed black peppercorns

• 4 ounces sherry or cognac

• 1 13.5-oz can of coconut milk, unsweetened

• 2 tablespoons soy sauce

• Steamed rice, for serving

• Soft-boiled eggs, for serving

• Pickled mustard greens, for serving

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 325F.

2. Season beef shanks with salt and pepper all over.

3. In a dutch oven or large oven safe pot over medium heat, add enough oil to coat the bottom of the pot. Once shimmering, sear beef shanks, mostly untouched, until both sides are browned, about 15 minutes total.

4. Remove beef shanks from the pot and set aside.

5. Add shallots, garlic, ginger, and chilis to the pot. Cook until the shallots and garlic and slightly browned, about 4 to 6 minutes.

6. Add in peppercorns and toast until aromatic, less than 1 minute.

7. Add in sherry and scrap the browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Reduce sherry by half, about 3 minutes.

8. Pour in coconut milk and soy sauce. Season with a pinch of salt and bring the liquid to a boil. Add beef shanks back into the pot and cover with lid and transfer to the oven.

9. Cook until beef shanks are tender, about 2½-3 hours.

10. Once the beef shanks are tender, carefully remove beef from the pot and set aside. Strain the sauce and reduce sauce by half, about 8 minutes. Add shanks back to the pot and coat with the sauce.

11. Serve beef shanks over rice with pickled mustard greens, and a soft boiled egg.

Parsnip Sticky Toffee Pudding

Serves 8

Wet Ingredients

• ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for greasing

• 6 ounces pitted dates (about 8 Medjool dates)

• 2 medium parsnips (about 8 ounces), peeled and roughly chopped into small pieces

• ½ cup granulated sugar

• ½ cup packed dark brown sugar

• 2 eggs, room temperature

• 1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste, or extract

• ¼ cup sour cream, room temperature

Dry Ingredients

• 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

• 1 ½ teaspoon kosher salt

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• ½ teaspoon baking soda

Toffee Sauce

• ¾ cup heavy cream

• ½ cup packed dark brown sugar

• ¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, plus more for searing the cake

• ¼ cup brandy, optional

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste, or extract

Sour Cream Whip

• 1 ½ cups heavy cream

• ¼ cup sour cream

• Flake salt, for serving if desired

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter the bottom of a 9x5-inch loaf pan and line with parchment paper. Grease the pan all over with butter, and dust with flour. Set aside.

2. Begin by browning the butter for the cake. Melt the ½ cup of butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk the butter continuously until browned, 3 to 4 minutes. (Keep an eye on it, as this can happen quickly!) Set aside to cool slightly.

3. Add dates to a small bowl and cover with boiling water. Let the dates soak for at least 10 minutes.

4. While the dates soak, prepare the dry ingredients. Add flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda to a medium bowl. Whisk until combined and set aside.

5. Drain dates from the soaking liquid and discard the liquid.

6. Add parsnips, sugar, dark brown sugar, eggs, vanilla, soaked dates and the reserved brown butter to a food processor. Process until the parsnips and dates are very finely chopped and everything is fully combined. This should take about 2-3 minutes of blending. Add in the sour cream and process just until combined.

7. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir just until combined. Pour batter into the prepared loaf pan.

8. Bake for 60-65 minutes until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out mostly clean with just a few moist crumbs. Set aside to cool.

9. While the cake cools, make toffee. Add cream, brown sugar, butter, brandy, salt, and vanilla to a small saucepan. Cook the toffee over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the butter is melted and the mixture reduces to a saucy consistency, 12 -15 minutes. The sauce should lightly coat the back of a spoon. Set the toffee aside.

10. Next, prepare the whipped cream. Add the cream and sour cream to a large bowl. Whip to soft peaks. Set aside in the fridge until you are ready to serve.

11. Once the cake is cool, prepare a serving: melt about 1 tablespoon of butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add a thick slice of the cake and sear on both sides until golden.

12. Place the warm, seared cake on a plate and top with the warm toffee sauce (reheating the toffee as needed). Sprinkle the cake with flake salt, and add a dollop of the whipped cream on the side. Enjoy!

Thanks for reading!

Follow Chuck Cruz on Instagram here. Read his recipes on his Substack here. Follow his side project, Two People Cooking, with his partner Hailee Catalano here.

Subscribe now

Share

Up Next:

These are the clothes I’m currently the most excited about. They’re simple, have lots of versatility, which allows me to wear them individually, or pair them to create multiple effortless fits. These fits are also insanely comfortable, giving me all the reason to re-wear them regularly.

In today’s letter: A brand that’s making some of the best budget denim right now and why spending more isn’t always the answer, what shirts I’ve been wearing recently, and revisiting a couple of oldies from my wardrobe.

What I’m wearing right now

I’ve had this Bozeman denim Type 2 jacket by Klaxon Howl for a few years now, but I never gave it the proper break-in it deserved. Klaxon Howl makes some amazing handmade vintage inspired garments out of Toronto. If you’re ever in the city, make sure you check out his physical location in the west end. The quality and the details in the garments made by Matt are worth every dollar.

Anyway, back to the jacket. I wore it a bunch when I first got it but then decided to put it away because I just didn’t want to wear a denim jacket. Years later I decided it was finally time to tap back into them, and now it’s one of my daily items in my wardrobe again.

It’s been only washed twice, so fades aren’t really coming through just yet, which I don’t mind. I’m 6’3 and went with a size L, which ended up fitting right at the waistline, and just at at the shoulder line for me. If you’re someone with a more broad set of shoulders, then you could benefit from sizing up.

Yeah yeah, natural fibers are great, but sometimes it’s way too hot to even wear pure cotton on your body. In moments like this I prefer shirts made out of Tencel, which are semi-synthetic fibres made using wood pulp that has been treated and processed in ways I haven’t looked into that deeply. All I know is a tencel shirt is extremely breathable, comfortable, wrinkle and stain resistant, and usually, priced really well.

Wythe makes some of my favorite tencel shirts, but I’ve been obsessed with the fit and feel of the Matthew Shirt from Stussy. Purple seems to be sold out on the site, but some other colors are still up for grabs—also just search around and see if anyone else has it in stock. DSM is a good place to look.

The shirt itself fits wider around the shoulders, giving it a shape that effortlessly drapes over your body. The tencel fabric used here is insanely soft and has a nice faded feel and look, which tends to blend really well to other colors in your outfit if you have them.

MORE SHIRTS

I tend to wear most of my 3sixteen shirts slightly oversized. This new Admin BD shirt is a size XL, which gives it a more relaxed look by slightly enlarging the length of the sleeves and the shoulder line.

I love the color of this one. The Dove Grey gives this very faint sage color to the shirt. It’s cool, it’s a color that I don’t have in my rotation. Plus, 3sixteen is a brand I’ll always go back to because I’ve never had any issues with their products. That collar is nice and thin, and by this point I’ve figure out my fit with most of their products. My only wish for this shirt is maybe make the pocket slightly smaller. Not a deal breaker though.

THE EVERYDAY DENIM

Finding the perfect pair of denim is a fun little project in theory, but not everyone has the time and effort to go through fading their own pair of jeans. Most people just want something that looks and feels good right out of the bag. No extra work required.

While I respect the effort it takes to create your own pair of denim through natural wear and tear, sometimes I just want to wear something very simple that doesn’t require all that work. I don’t need the super fancy fabric, I just need something that works when I’m on the go.

Subscribe now

Besides having that perfect fit that works for you, a good pair of everyday jeans should be exceptionally comfortable and have the right fade that works seamlessly with everything in your wardrobe. Most importantly, they don’t have to be $500.

I found a pair of jeans that has all of this and only costs $150.

Read more

In today’s post: Actually, we’re not doing that for this series. I want people to read through and explore ideas and topics without having to know what’s coming up next.

Let’s dive in.

Subscribe now

Share

• This week I remembered the elite turtleneck levels from the GOAT, Issey Miyake. I mean, rocking one so effortlessly underneath a button-up is the level of style that many menswear bros aspire to be. Just remember, the turtleneck fitting perfectly around your neck is crucial, or you risk making your entire outfit fall short. Having natural style sauce also helps.

• Dover Street Market Market is back. Basically you get a chance to buy brands like The Row, Comme des Garcons, Prada, Stussy, and more for up to 70% off. This time they are having this sale in L.A., which has already started but will be on until May 13th. Located at MICA Studios, 356 S Mission Rd, Los Angeles.

• Adidas drops Backyard Legends, a short film starring an array of big names like Timothee Chalamet, Lamine Yamal, Messi, Bad Bunny, and more—wasn’t really on board with the ai David Beckham tbh. Alas, Adidas has been killing the pre-World Cup marketing so far.

• The homie Josh from In Vintage We Trust just posted a crazy tip that’s really helpful on how to figure out the fit on a vintage pair of jeans on the go.

What is menswear saying?

The recent pulse check on what the menswear bros are obsessed with right now is clear; deck shoes, madras fabrics, chinos, and pleated shorts that are at the knee or below—a style that feels delayed when compared to what skaters have been wearing for years prior.

Trying to find the perfect loafer has also been a common question that I’ve been seeing on twitter a lot recently. A lot of debate, but not enough clear evidence to identity the clear winner—maybe the perfect loafer is the one that works for your foot!

You might have seen some discussion around the v-neck sweater, but as of last week, I saw it on my timeline at least 5 different times. The interest is definitely there. Do what you will with that information. Am I into it? Unclear. I will say, I’ve seen a few homies of mine pull it off quite nicely though.

In case you missed it…

• What button-up shirts I’m excited about right now.

• Un-gatekeeping a Slob Cotton tee under $100 that I wear daily.

• How Levi’s reclaimed the youth

I recently went to L.A., and of course, I bought a bunch of stuff. First and foremost, this Double RL Western shirt has not left my body. Loving the top button detailing on this one. Slim fit — I recommend sizing up.

I recently discovered these Japanese Icon Books that feature legendary movie stars like Robert De Niro, Winona Ryder, Keanu Reeves, and more that are filled with style inspiration. I feel like I should be gatekeeping this but whatever. You guys can have this one.

A bunch of them are currently available over at IDEA here.

Things in my cart

• The new Stussy board short is great. Big sizes. Wish I didn’t sleep on the brown and blue pair.

• Vans is having a real comeback into the mainstream right now. We can argue that they never really went anywhere, but they are definitely back in the fashion zeitgeist after some time off. Wild color Authentics are all the rage right now—the recent Beams Boy collaboration was an absolute smash, but we need to see this colorway in mens sizing asap. Speaking of Vans, the Authentic Ease is definitely a huge step in the right direction. I mean, that suede fold over is such a good, subtle detail.

• James Coward puts out some exceptional footwear collabs, and their recent Banana Shoe is no different. They really nailed the leather & crepe combination on this one—the suede upper versions are also very good.

  

• New spring arrivals from Small Talk just hit their website. This hoodie and this shirt are especially fire.

• Just found out about these rollneck sweaters from The Thirteen Club. Sold out unfortunately, but it seems as though they drop this style consistently. Looks like a solid shape with a 90% ultrafine merino wool, 10% cashmere construction. Need to see these for myself to be sure though. Of course, buying a sweater as we head into the summer might feel silly, but maybe it’s something worth keeping in our back pocket for later.

• Just picked up a copy of Proof by Cam Hicks, a photobook of behind the scenes of Virgil as he worked on his Louis Vuitton debut in 2018. Love this sort of stuff.

• Do I need this Land Rover rug? Probably not, but my house would feel a lot cooler if I did have it.

  

Thanks for reading the first edition of The Offcuts!

Make sure you join our growing community on the Chat, only available to our subscribers. Lots of great discussion happening already, but I would not to see even more. I know that some have been asking for a members-only Discord…? Is this something that is of interest? Let me know.

In an effort to get our community even more evolved, I want to hear what fashion thoughts you have on your mind right now, or if you have any specific questions that you need answering. Everything is welcome. Let’s get talking!

Leave a comment

Subscribe now

Read Next:

Read my Ultimate Guide to Good Quality Basics here.

Welcome back to the SNL City Guide series, where I curate the best shopping, eating, and hanging out experiences all in one place. In today’s guide, we’re going to the west side to explore the hidden gems and must visit spots of Los Angeles.

I’m big on driving with the windows down, listening to music, all while doing random side quests throughout the day. It can be as simple as starting the day with a coffee from the local hot spot to get a pulse check on what the culture is radiating at the moment, swinging by my favorite shops, stopping by along the way to say hi to a couple of friends, and ending the night with a meal at some new spot someone recommended.

That’s the beauty of L.A., it’s the perfect place to cosplay slow living. The city is massive, with hidden gems spread all across the city. Having a car when you visit is essential—because nobody wants to end up with a hundreds of dollars in Uber bills. People say that traffic is always bad, and I don’t necessarily think that’s true. If you’re someone who enjoys driving around, then you will not find this to be as a major inconvenience as many might say.

Alternatively, you can minimize your need to travel far distances if you position yourself in the right neighborhoods. My favs are: Larchmont, Silver Lake, and Echo Park… classic. If you’re looking to cover some serious distance on your trip, Larchmont is probably one of the best positioned places you can stay in. Here you’re equally distanced to West Hollywood or the Arts District—both great areas for solid shopping and eating.

These are just some basic suggestions. The beauty of LA is there’s always something going on somewhere. So get lost and figure out your areas as you explore through the city.

Below you’ll find my full guide to Los Angeles. It features the clothing shops I visit when I’m in town, bookstores—I’ll be sharing one of my favorite bookstores in the world that you have to go to—food and drink spots, and some stuff in between that’s worth the experience.

Here’s a quick round-up of some of my must go to spots, with a full list that you can sync directly to your Google Maps at the bottom of this letter.

DOUBLE RL

Nothing like a Ralph Lauren experience to start your trip right. There’s something about shopping at the Double RL location in Melrose that gives me that California vibe that I’m looking for everytime I’m in town.

What used to be a former mechanic’s garage is now Ralph’s world.

No but for real, what’s amazing about a Ralph in-store experience is the ability to get lost in the merchandising. Organized chaos makes you dig and look around the corners of the store to discover clothes that are tucked away in corners not displayed anywhere else in the store.

Located at 8150 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles.

La Brea is a great spot for some classic streetwear stores and cafes that are all on the same block:

• Stussy - 112 S La Brea Ave

• Metalwood Studios - 128 S La Brea Ave

• Union - 110 S La Brea Ave

• Stone Island - 101 N La Brea Ave

• Neighborhood Cafe - 133 S La Brea Ave

• Carhartt WIP - 136 S La Brea Ave

• Y3 Concept Store - 138 S La Brea Ave

ARCHITECTURE BOOKS

Listen, I know your girl has probably seen Community Goods and now wants to go see what the hype is all about. The truth is, I haven’t been by there without seeing a lineup of what feels like hundreds of people waiting to get their latte. I know you’re not interested in waiting, and neither am I, so go across the street and enjoy some small bites and coffee while browsing an archive selection of art and photo books over at Architecture Books.

Read more

It’s been a while since I last upgraded my sunglasses rotation. What I currently have does its purpose well, and I’ve enjoyed wearing them over the last few years, but I want something new.

In today’s letter, we’re going to take a look at what makes a good pair of sunglasses, a list of my favorite brands I like to shop at for new frames, why investing in new designer glasses is not worth your money, and vintage styles to keep in mind when searching for your own pair.

I haven’t tapped into designer shades in a while, so I decided to pay SSENSE a visit to check out a bunch of styles all in one place—if you’re ever in Montreal, you can book an appointment at SSENSE to view and try on items at their store.

My notes from checking out various luxury brand shades; it doesn’t feel worth it. Most of them were made out of low-tier acetate or steel. Hardware quality on most of these expensive options doesn’t feel that good enough to justify the price. I personally hate when the hinges become loose after short period of wear, making the entire pair feel fonky. I’m also never going out of my way to fix them, so I just end up with a pair of floppy shades that I paid way too much for—of course after you reach that $800+ mark, then usually they are great quality overall, but for that price it just feels a bit too much.

The sweet spot for a great pair of glasses should be between $200-$300. These sunglasses should come in a high-end acetate or metal frame, have great hardware that feels solid even after years of use, good quality lenses, and most importantly, a good fit doesn’t feel tight around your face. Most lenses these days are made out of plastic, so if you can score a pair that’s using glass, then that’s the real cherry on top.

Below are some of my favorite brands to get you started:

Bonnie Clyde

Well priced, solid frame quality and hardware throughout, Bonnie Clyde has frames for everyone, and my favorite part; there’s little to no branding on the outside of the frame. Although it’s not that big of a deal, I prefer sunglasses that keep the branding to a minimum.

I’ve had several pairs of Bonnie Clyde shades. They’ve held up extremely well, and tend to be the glasses that my friends ask me about the most. They are relatively light in weight and feel very comfortable on my face.

Some of my personal styles of theirs are the Trinket, Sudoku, and Boss Fight.

Check out the full catalog over at Bonnie Clyde here. They also have stores out in LA and NY for those who want to experience their product in person.

Read more

The overload of information in today’s world plays a part in how we look at obsession. We’ve been programmed to be obsessed with general ideas and specific genres in various fields, rather than being obsessed with the hyper-niche subgenres of a specific topic.

This thought came to me after reading Happy Victims, a photo book by Kyochi Tsuzuki that was first published in 2008. It’s been out of print for a while but has returned in a new edition in 2025. The photographs showcase the private homes of regular people who have dedicated and even sacrificed parts of their lives in order to collect specific designer brands—an obsession level that is pretty rare to see these days.

These photos were taken by Tsuzuki between April 1999 and August 2006, and were originally published in Ryuko Tsuhin, a Japanese fashion magazine.

These collectors actively chose to trim their lifestyle down to the spaces they live in to dedicate all of their resources to collecting a specific designer.

Subscribe now

What I found extremely interesting about this book was in the foreword by Tsuzuki; “People like to sneer at high school girls who sell themselves to get money to buy Chanel goods or housewives who stuff Louis Vuitton handbags into the baskets of their mama-and-baby bicycles when they go food shopping. And yet the very same folks think nothing of the poor scholar who keeps buying and buying more books than anyone could possibly read in a lifetime, piling up so many volumes that the floor starts to tilt. They don’t laugh at DJ wannabes who scrimp and eat only convenience store snack foods while they buy stack upon stack of records. Only the objects of their passion differ, not the depth of intensity. Can such a hierarchy really exist in the world of collecting?”

Tsuzuki’s concept made me think about obsession in a different way. Certain collectors don’t get the same treatment as fashion enthusiasts might get, and that’s because society has deemed that being so hyper-specific about clothes comes off as pretentious or even a waste of time.

Maybe it’s because in today’s world that’s actually somewhat true. In some ways, obsession is now rooted in social status, and not the actual items anymore. You have people with enormous wealth buying into fashion with no actual passion for the clothes, but rather the social status it brings them.

Being obsessed with something today means something completely different than it did a few decades ago. Obsessing over a specific niche within a genre doesn’t feel as common anymore, and I think it’s because of how much information we’re constantly consuming. It’s easy to be swayed by ideas and concepts that make you feel like you are obsessed with a lot of things, when you’re actually not obsessed with anything at all.

The brands themselves are also a part of the reason why we might not see such dedicated fanbase anymore. Most brands are no longer focusing on creating worlds, but instead are just trying to generate the most hype and engagement, which then turns into sales. Of course, brands like Rick Owens and Yohji Yamamoto have stayed true to their ideology of world building and I think they are some of the last brands remaining that could still have that extreme level of fans.

So what am I writing all of this for? Well, I think this is all about observation and how people view obsession today.

Honestly, I’m one of those people who would say I’m “obsessed with fashion” but couldn’t give you a straight answer on what I’m actually obsessed with. Part of that is running this blog—I’m naturally trying to stay relevant to a wider audience so I share a lot of things I enjoy. Over time the net gets wider, and without realizing it, I go from being hyper-focused on specific niches to just being generally into a lot of stuff.

That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but reading Happy Victims made me aware of this in ways I haven’t thought about on a deeper level.

Besides being one of the most essential fashion books that any self-proclaimed fashion enthusiast should have in their collection, Happy Victims is a great way to think about how hyper-niche obsessions affect our style. What’s cool about the book is it features excerpts of the subjects’ daily life, giving you a look at what lives they lived while comparing that to the designer brand they are obsessed with.

The most impactful part of this book is the foreword by Tsuzuki and the introduction by Isabella Burley of Climax Books. These words set the tone and put you in a specific headspace to better understand the idea and subjects Tsuzuki chose to capture.

We’re always talking about style and how to develop it to ultimately make it our own, and I think that obsession is a key factor that helps you achieve that goal naturally; it’s a topic that I wrote about in a past letter on How to Develop Your Sense of Style.

If you don’t have the book, go get it. If you do, re-open it and dive back into it with the intention of having a specific obsession that could help you define your personal style. I think it’s awesome to be so into something, but not in a way where you choose to sacrifice other aspects of your life, of course.

The subjects in Happy Victims are diving into a world that was created by someone else, but through it, they end up finding themselves, even if it is an expense of everything else.

The re-print of Happy Victims is available to buy from Apartamento here.

Leave a comment

Subscribe now

Read next:

To figure out what the best option is for you is through simple trial and error. The fit, preference in fabric, and the overall details should come together to craft what you think is the perfect t-shirt for you.

Because the answer is so personal, a good place to start is by looking at brands making t-shirts with these variables in mind. JJJJound is one of those brands. They’ve been experimenting with vintage-inspired fits while focusing on the cottons they use to craft old classics in a fresh luxurious finish.

In today’s letter I went down to meet the JJJJound team here in Montreal to figure out what makes their t-shirts special. Here’s a look at 6 different styles that they currently have available, and why going with a t-shirt from JJJJound could be a great choice this season.

When it comes to re-upping on new tees for the summer I look for breathability through lightweight cottons, a strong collar that sits tight around the neck, and something that’s definitely not cropped in the fit. From my experience, JJJJound seems to pass these requirements with ease, but with the various fit styles ranging from the 70s to the 2000s, which t-shirt is right for you?

For the sake of research: I am 6’3 and got all medium sizes for today’s letter.

Subscribe now

Share

90s WASHED T-SHIRT

Starting off strong with what I think is one of the best fitting t-shirts from JJJJound. Ribbed collar inspired from 90s sportswear jerseys is nice and tight around the neck. Single stitch hem is also a nice touch I’ll never get tired of—it’s just a detail that you don’t get to see so much in newer tees.

This is their lightest tee coming in at 155gsm, which makes the cotton feel significantly more luxurious in comparison to their other heavier cottons in their catalog—not saying that the other tees are lacking in quality, it’s just the finish of the 155gsm is one of their stronger cottons they use.

90s 2 PACK

The 90s 2 pack comes in at $110—a $20 increase from the single 90s washed tee. Same exact fit and details throughout, the only difference here is the slightly thicker cotton, which comes in at 200gsm—a more midweight style and is the heaviest cotton option that JJJJound offers. Side note: The 90s tee is also available in a pocket version as well.

I’d say that the 90s and the 90s washed tees are great options for people who just need a good everyday shirt to wear by itself. They are both extremely soft, although the 90s washed feels slightly more luxirious on the skin. If you’re someone who sweats easily, going with the 90s washed might be a better option.

2000s T-SHIRT

This is the widest fit tee they have. Classic 2000s fit. It’s perfect for those who want a more relaxed fit in the shoulders and armpits. Definitely more free flowing and doesn’t compress to your body, which gives you more overall breathability throughout. Same combed ring-spun cotton construction as the 90s tee, giving it that midweight softness. Single stitch hem for that vintage finish.

For my bigger boys the 2000s is going to be the choice over the 90s fit.

70s T-SHIRT

The 70s tee is interesting. The slim fit mimics the style of the 90s washed tee that wraps tighter around the torso, making this an ideal undershirt. The thin bound collar also sits nicely around the neck and feels less constricting in comparison to the ribbed thick collar you’ll find on the 90s tee. The tee also has the shortest sleeve length, so less fabric and more comfortability when wearing this as an underlayer.

Although you can wear one of the thicker collar tees under a shirt, I found that I had more overall mobility while wearing the 70s tee as an underlayer.

70s LONGSLEEVE

Arguably the best longsleeve I’ve ever put on. I was worried that going with the medium size was going to be slightly short but it ended up fitting me perfectly—I’m lanky though and I could have easily went with a large size for a slightly relaxed look. This longsleeve combines the 155gsm cotton elements and the fit of the 90s washed tee with the thin bound collar of the 70s tee.

Remember, 155gsm cotton is pretty thin, so this a great choice for the summer or as an underlayer. Definitely going to pick up multiple of these.

90s V-NECK

This one is strictly for research purposes. I have never owned a v-neck tee because it’s not for me, but putting this one on didn’t make me hate it. Would I wear it on its own? Probably not, but it could be a great layer under your favorite sweater. What I like is that the v isn’t as intense here. Fit and construction is basically the 90s washed with a simple v-neck swap.

Leave a comment

Subscribe now

So, what’s the verdict? Based on what I tried on, I would say that either the 90s washed or the 70s tee were my favorite out of the bunch—the longsleeve is perfect though, but it’s not really a t-shirt so it’s in its own category. I like the lightweight properties of these 90s and 70s because they are ideal for maximizing breathability while minimizing any potential sweating during the heat.

While the thick collar fits tight around the neck, I think I prefer the bound collar because it’s slightly thinner and lighter overall. This detail allows the tee to move more freely around your neck while still keeping its tight shape. But also after a few wears and washes the thicker collar should loosen up slightly, giving similar mobility properties—it’s not that you can’t move around in that tee, it’s just that the collar is significantly tighter, and I know that’s a plus for many people.

Today we talked about white tees, but these fits are available in additional colors directly on their website here. What’s also great is that they offer their tees as large as 3 XL, a size that you don’t see that often.

All of their tees are made in either Canada or Portugal using extremely comfortable cottons that have their unique fits that make them perfect for specific types of people. Priced between $70 to $90, and $110 for two packs, which in today’s market is a really solid deal for a more luxurious t-shirt that’s built to last.

I think that JJJJound has come a long way through rigorous experimentation to figure out how to create a good everyday product that feels luxurious without the insanely expensive price tag, and that’s why I think they are worth trying out this summer season.

Shop JJJJound tees directly on their website here.

READ NEXT:

My guide on upgrading your daily bag can be read here.

New season, new pants. That seems to be a common point with every fashion enjoyer. A good pair of pants is the glue that holds the entire outfit together—you may have figured out the rest of your fit, but if the pants are not right, then the entire outfit could fall shorts.

Now, I spend a lot of time observing clothes and the trends that drive them. There are obvious styles that are more popular than others, and I think that it’s fair to say that the classic chino is one of the more popular pant styles that all of the online menswear bros seem to be obsessed with right now.

Quick lesson on the chino; origins go back to the 19th century as the base for military uniforms for the British colonial troops. Chinos ended up being brought back to America by decommissioned soldiers and given new life through the Ivy League era. The style evolved when they started being worn with loafers and sneakers, which would go on to become on of the most classic pairings in menswear. Usually crafted out of a cotton twill fabric that remains lightweight and durable all at the same time.

With time all trends take a backseat, but those that keep coming back or continue to stay relevant after decades end up cementing themselves as classic wardrobe staples. Chinos are definitely one of those items.

It’s no secret that classic menswear is an absolute boom right now. The numbers don’t lie either. Content around chinos is guaranteed to do numbers on the algorithm, but with so much information in our face it could become harder to make the right chino purchase.

Today’s letter is free for everyone. Support the blog by hitting the subscribe button:

Subscribe now

THE CLASSIC CHOICE

There’s a clear interest around the classic khaki chinos right now—Polo Ralph Lauren’s ongoing partnership with Beams is proof of that. Their newest chino collaboration is dropping on the Beams Plus website on April 24th. References of vintage Ralph details throughout, these were mainly inspired by the chinos worn by Woody Allen in Annie Hall (1977).

Depending on how you wear your chinos you might not be so interested in the coin pocket at the front. This detail definitely leans more into the ivy style, which is slightly less casual in comparison to chinos without this detail.

The Big Fit Chinos from the last Polo + Beams Plus collaboration might be a good substitute for those that want a similar fit in a more casual finish. Same with the Beams+ 2 Pleat Chino. I would say they are the closest fit to the Polo Ralph Lauren AH-77 you’re going to get.

Of course the real best option if you’re looking to go down that Polo route is to search for vintage pairs on eBay. A lot of choice in different colors and fades, and a lot of them are under $50.

Related Articles:

The beauty of chinos is how easily adaptable they are. They pretty much work with any outfit, giving you the ability to lean into specific styles using only one item. Dress the chinos up with a loafer and a tee for that casual yet put together look. Of course swapping for a sneaker will end up creating the most common relaxed fit we see on the streets. Have an evening that requires a dressed up look that still more casual? Throw a button up a blazer, a nice pair of oxfords, and you’re set. Denim jacket and a pair of chinos go together like PB&J. I can keep going, but the point is, there are infinite ways of dressing a chino that doesn’t require a lot of thinking on how to make them work within your wardrobe.

Share

Leave a comment

MY PICKS

Below are some of my chino recommendations for the shopper that doesn’t feel like going down the Polo route, instead you want something a bit slightly different, maybe more casual leaning through a more relaxed fit. Of course the chino itself is going to be more or less the same in style, but where they differ is either through color, specific fabrics, or slightly altered fits throughout.

THISISNEVERTHAT CHINO

Probably the best option for your buck. You’re getting 100% cotton classic fit chinos in 3 solid garment fades. Beauty of thisisneverthat is the price; you can’t go wrong with a pair of classics for $120 dollars. You get a more loose fit on the thighs, which gives these pants more relaxed flowiness throughout the entire leg.

Available over at thisisneverthat website here.

18 EAST ROSSI CHINO

I don’t think 18 East needs any introduction, but if you’re someone who hasn’t experienced the excellence of their products then maybe this is your sign to give them a proper go. Besides making one of the best fits on the market, the quality from my 18 East pants stand above the rest of my pants in my rotation.

The Rossi Chino is crafted using a soft brushed cotton melange cavalry twill—sounds like a lot of words but all you need to know is that they are extremely comfortable on the body—it’s one of those fabrics that will soften rapidly with wear, making them your go to bottoms in no time.

Available in various colors on the 18 East website here.

NANAMICA CHINO

Nanamica is one of my secret weapons. I’m tall so I need pants that fit me properly, and I think that Nanamica has nailed that length. I mean, for my taller people you should definitely have this brand in your back pocket. One thing that Nanamica does really well is create garments that look great while not requiring a lot of maintenance. These chinos are 65% cotton 35% polyester but hear me out.

The cotton poly blend comes together to create a soft fabric that’s anti-wrinkle. Instead, the poly acts as a tool that ends up creating effortless flow to the fabric throughout the fit—the fabric is perfect for those who look for natural stacking on their shoe.

What I love about their brand is their fabric development. It’s really unlike anything else that you can get elsewhere, and it shows across all of their products.

Available over at Nanamica’s website here.

WTAPS CHINO

For those who are after an all-cotton chino that still has some anti-wrinkle properties should check out the WRKT2001 from Wtaps. A straight fit that tapers at the leg opening to give you a slightly narrowed cut down the leg. Doesn’t get any more straightforward than this. This one is for the busy guy that’s constantly doing errands and needs something that requires no thinking when wearing them.

Available over at Haven here.

UP NEXT:

Share

Subscribe now

If you’re a veteran SNL reader then you know the drill. If you’re new to the blog then today you can expect a finely curated list of clothes on sale that I’m enjoying right now. We’ll also have a list of online shops that are having great deals that you should know about.

THE LIST

• Park and Province — Up to 60% off on that good menswear. Great deals on brands like FrizmWORKS, NN07, and 3sixteen.

• NAMU — Up to 50% off but most of the good stuff is in that 30-40% off range. One of my personal favorites as they carry an awesome selection from brands like YOKE, Kaptain Sunshine, Blurhms, and more Japan-specific brands.

Read more

Read about the shirts I’m excited about right now here.

Traveling soon? Read the exclusive City Guides on cities around the world to get the latest info on the best shopping, eating, and everything in between.

What’s up everyone, we got a packed letter today; we have an exclusive detailed look at the upcoming 18 East + Keen collab dropping at the end of the week, shorts I have my eyes on for the summer, a pair of affordable lambskin loafers that I can’t stop thinking about, and some other great recommendations that I’m excited about right now.

18 EAST + KEEN

Last year I wrote about the Jasper Zionic by Keen in collaboration with Pilgrim Surf Supply—a huge sleeper in my opinion. Comfort and colorway was great. Haven’t really thought about that model since, but we’re back with another Jasper Zionic in collaboration with 18 East, and it’s another good one.

What I like about this model is that it works on many levels; you can go hiking with it, or just treat it as your everyday city shoe. Either way, it’s just one of those shoes that you might not think you’ll wear a lot until you put your feet in them, and then it becomes your daily that you’re obsessed with.

This model comes with brushed suede detailing and Rajasthani 3M stitching that lights up under the right light. Go with your true size on this one!

The 18 East + Keen Jasper Zionic is dropping on Friday, April 17th on both 18 East and Keen websites.

LETTING THE DOGS OUT

Personally I haven’t been even thinking about shorts because the weather sucks here, but a lot of our readers seem to be in places where they are looking to expose their calfs to the sun.

So, here are a couple of shorts recommendations that I came across this week that I think you’ll enjoy as much as I did.

First we got a couple of new ones from the good folks over at Earth Studies. Can’t go wrong with a technical short this season that has a built-in belt and a fit that focuses on comfort.

Jorts and below the knee shorts in general still have a lot of steam left, so you can expect to see those a lot this summer. I really like these textured shorts from Heresy, but also these jorts in green are also going to be great this summer.

For my runners or those who enjoy mixing technical fabrics with their everyday wear will enjoy these Space-O 5” inch inseam shorts from Satisfy Running. You’re getting great engineered quality that’s built for performance.

You can’t go wrong with a classic all-cotton relaxed short from Stussy. This is one of those that you can wear outside, at home, on vacation, to the grocery store, whatever. It does it all and it doesn’t cost a lot of money.

Read more

Finding the perfect rotation of shirts that work harmoniously with your clothes isn’t as easy as one might think it is. You could make the argument that the difficulty levels are similar to finding the right pair of pants.

Luckily it doesn’t have to be all that difficult. Since we have so many options at our disposal, it really comes down to what you’re looking to get out of the shirt. Although they may feel similar, almost every brand has their own version of some shirting available right now.

In today’s letter I have curated a selection of brands that are making some of my favorite shirts right now. We have shirts that are great for work, your next summer vacation, and everyday living.

START WITH VINTAGE

We live in a world where we can get a shirt for $40 or $400, but is one truly better than the other? It really depends who you ask. I do believe that each price point offers something different, and that’s what makes shopping for shirting slightly more interesting.

Vintage options from brands like Brooks Brothers and Polo Ralph Lauren are a great places to start for those who want to spend under $50 for a good quality shirt.

For my tall people, Brooks Brothers will have you covered on a budget—as an example, this Supima Cotton shirt is under $20, but it’s going to feel and look like you spent way more than that.

You can follow this official fit guide to understand what models will be ideal for your body type. In general the shirts run long but that’s because they are meant to be tucked in—don’t want to do all that? Then run it to your tailor and have them alter it to your liking.

Polo is self explanatory and is currently having a huge revival in menswear right now. Some new Ralph is fun that’s for sure, but the real hits are buried deep at your local thrift and online.

The thing about Polo on eBay is the sheer variety that you can find. A quick search yields wild results like this awesome Polo Patchwork Blake Shirt, or this Polo Madras one.

Of course you can’t forget about the classic oxfords and simple styles that you can get from Polo as well. Back in the day cuts for shirts were traditionally slimmer around the body, so keep that in mind when shopping for vintage options. If you’re looking for flowiness that’s a bit more boxy, you might benefit from sizing up and then tailoring the length.

Subscribe now

Can’t forget about one of the greatest oxfords of all time. Gitman Vintage is a sub-label that launched in 2008 that aimed to bring more casual styles that were still rooted in the tradition of its original label, Gitman Bros., which has been making shirts in America since 1978.

While you can shop Gitman on eBay to get deals on past styles, like this linen shirt for only $30, the real fun begins with their made to order shirts that are available to customize directly on their site—if you’re someone who has trouble finding that perfect fit, then maybe this is the answer you’ve been looking for.

You can also enjoy their mainline available directly on their site here.

All in all, Gitman is an awesome choice for a lot of people. They make products that are ideal for work and a casual hangout with friends. I don’t think I’ve ever come across a person who didn’t enjoy having a Gitman shirt in their wardrobe.

Leave a comment

IS SPENDING A LOT WORTH IT?

I don’t think we can ever justify designer shirts being priced close to $2,000. That’s dumb. However, I do believe that there’s room for new shirting that costs a few hundred—of course I get that we can make the argument that a shirt shouldn’t cost more than $300 or whatever, but that’s just not the reality of what things cost anymore.

Anyway, so why spend so much on a shirt? Well, there are a bunch of reasons. Right now menswear is obsessed with loose fitting shirts in a straight hem, so you’re going to have a lot of options in this fit available—although slimmer cuts with rounded hems are starting to make waves again.

There’s also an exciting boom in fabric development happening right now. Brands are investing heavily in this space, and that causes prices to go up, but in the end you are left with shirts made out of extremely soft natural fibers in a cut that fits the current style zeitgeist. To put it simply, this is a level of quality that you won’t be able to recreate as easily from a vintage options.

Below is a list of brand that I believe are excelling in the fabric development space, giving us unique shirting that you won’t be able to find elsewhere:

Read more

In today’s letter, we’ll take a look at what bags I’m geeking on right now, we’ll check out some of my favorite brands, premium options for those who want to invest in something more luxurious, and budget friendly bags that are perfect for the office and city exploration.

Bags are a funny thing. They’re multi-purpose but different styles are better for specific moments in life. As I got older I started understanding the importance of having a good rotation of bags; I have options for work and everyday living, I got my grocery bags, different options for traveling, and that one off bag that’s ready for the rain.

Today’s list of recommendations touches upon all of these categories and some. Since bags are such a personal item, I figured it would be best to showcase a lot of styles from different brands just to get ideas flowing.

Share

Leave a comment

F/CE

This Japanese brand is great for those looking for more technical focused bag. Think ripstop and other water-repellent fabrics that come with a lot of storage and hidden compartments.

What I like about F/CE is the price and their vast selection that—I wrote about them in a past letter where I got a chance to really deep dive into the brand and their bags are some of their strongest products.

With a brand like F/CE you really have to take the time and explore what they offer. There are a lot of hidden details, sizes, material variety, styles, and good quality hardware to choose from. I do believe that the price they set these bags at reflects the quality that you get in return—it’s one of those things that is noticable the moment you see these in person. They’re great.

Shop F/CE directly on their website here. They do offer international shipping, but if you happen to be in Japan soon, then I recommend visiting their Tokyo flagship.

HOBO

I know, they have a very interesting name but the stuff is too good to ignore. It’s one of those IYKYK brands. Out of Japan, Hobo has been specializing in bags for a long time now, and they’ve even dabbled in some great footwear, but that’s not why we’re here.

The only place that I know you can get Hobo in North America is at Haven, but the stock is running low. If you’re not afraid of doing some international shipping then Coverchord will be a great place to get some of their stuff right now. I’m personally really feeling their Azuma Shoulder Bag in either pig skin leather or the nylon version which is a bit cheaper.

The bags are big, which I like a lot. Obviously pig skin leather is the obvious choice here, and for under $250 you get a bag of high quality that you’ll actually enjoy.

Read more

Now this clean up is for those that seriously need it. If you’re someone that keeps their closet in check on a regular basis, I’m jealous.

The only way to really clean out your closet is by going in and taking everything out. And I mean everything. You don’t know what you’ve put away where, and I’m willing to bet you'll end up stumbling across an item tucked away in a corner that you’ve always enjoyed but ended up forgetting about.

This is also a good time to finally say goodbye to the clothes that have created intricate dust patterns at the bottom of your closet, and to reorganize the stuff that you love to wear right now.

I’d often go into my closet, look through stuff, think to myself that I don’t have anything to wear, and then come out with an outfit I’m not even that excited about. It didn’t help that the weather sucked for what felt like an eternity, but now I’m a week out from what seems like the warmth, and I’m scrambling to figure out what I even want to wear.

My usual seasonal shift consists of rotating my winter clothes with my spring ones, but this time I realized that keeping both in my view when trying to get dressed was creating this overwhelming vibe. The clothes I wasn’t excited about were directly next to clothes I did like, or I thought I did. I don’t know anymore. I’ve reached the point where there’s nothing left to do but to finally force myself to say goodbye to the clothes that have been collecting dust in my closet.

Subscribe now

Share

During this cleanse I found a few personal items that I had completely forgotten about that I’m hyped to bringing back to my rotation. My wardrobe did take a hit though; I am discarding about 80% of my stuff. Seems excessive, but a lot of the clothes did get their fair share of usage over the years. I’m just ready to usher in a new style this summer, and the unused stuff had become mind clutter.

I feel as though my personal style was stuck a little bit as of late. The weather didn’t help, but there was a lack of vision and excitement when it came to adding new pieces to my wardrobe. Of course there are exceptions, but it’s been daunting to shop for myself, and I think that’s because I was unsure of what I actually wanted.

If you’re feeling that your current wardrobe feels like it lacks excitement and that adding new clothes isn’t solving your issue, then getting rid of the clothes you don’t actually enjoy wearing is going to be a better answer to many of your style problems.

It’s time to let go and give those clothes away.

For me personally, a lot of my clothes end up collecting dust because even though I’ve come to terms I’m never going to wear them I’ll never be able to sell them for what I got them for. So, I just keep it in case there is a chance that I might wear it again, but that time never comes. Coming to terms that you might not recoup the money you spent opens up endless possibility of finding your sense of style. It forces you to say goodbye to things, and thus opening up space for new ideas to come through. Plus, I like to think that a little bit of something beats a whole lot of nothing.

Once you come to terms that letting go is good, that’s where the real style rehabilitation starts to take form. Of course you can sell your stuff, but that takes a lot of effort sometimes, and in those moments you’re better off keeping that item for yourself. If you have clothes like that, then I suggest trying out the “Give It To Your Homies” approach. Get your friends to come over and go through your closet. There’s no better feeling than giving a loved one an item of clothing they seem genuinely excited about. It’s a win-win

Ok. Let’s recap. You’ve finally pulled through on a day that was dedicated for chillin’ and you cleaned out your closet. You went in and removed everything. Create a “definitely will wear”, and “this has to go” piles and start organizing—if things can fit in between the maybe I’ll wear this, maybe I won’t, then create a third pile. After you’ve finished you will go through it again and reorganize it into the first two piles. Really ask yourself if you’re going to wear this item, or is it time to let it go to make space for new ideas.

If you’re like me you might be left with a pretty empty closet after you’ve finished, and that’s totally ok! Now, this is where the fun begins. There’s going to be a period where you’re going to be creating outfits with little options, but during this time is where you get to clearly see what you actually want to wear.

For me it starts with some new denim. Although I have multiple pairs of jeans I wear regularly, this clean up has led me to realize that I’m lacking a nice pair of light wash denim in my rotation.

I’ve looked around at brands like Auralee and Sunflower, which has giving me plenty of ideas of what my next light wash jean would look like, but I think I’m going to need to do some further research. You can never go wrong with a pair of Levi’s 501s, but I think I’m leaning towards avoiding shopping online for this one. More updates on this later.

My button ups also needs a desperate refresh because I left myself with only 2 options to wear and that’s not going to cut it. This Niceness button up seems to have everything I want; slim pointed collar, lightweight flowiness with amazing details throughout, and finished in a nice baby blue that I can’t take my eyes off.

It reminds me of this Tencel shirt from Wythe that I love a lot. It’s made using a non-toxic to skin fabric that’s more environmentally friendly than rayon. It also looks and feels much better on the body—the fit is perfect in my opinion.

The Wythe Tencel shirt is insanely breathable and you can wear it for much longer without having to wash it—thanks to the non-microbial properties of the Tencel fabric, odor doesn’t stick to it as quickly as other natural fibers.

Might just pick up a few of these for the summer, as Wythe has a huge selection available on their site right now.

They also have a variety of 100% cotton shirts that come with pearl snaps for those who want that full natural fiber experience. Either way, definitely recommend picking up a few. They make for great lounge shirts, vacations, dinners, casual weekends, whatever.

Stussy came through at the right moment with a new drop that has a bunch of shirts that aren’t going to destroy my wallet. I like their Oxfords, but I’d rather go with a used Polo; the colors are simply better and you can’t beat the price—a merely 2 minute search gave me this yellow Polo Oxford for only $30.

I did secure some stuff though. The Garment Dyed tee in the soft yellow couldn’t have been added to my cart fast enough. Best midweight fitting tee I have right now. Love running these through the wash and dryer—the ones I have now have become some of the softest tees I own. I also got the Matthew Shirt in lavender. The model styling was a bit ehh to me, but I have high hopes. Will report back on this soon.

There’s still a lot of work left to do to make sure my closet is looking proper this summer, but this is a good start. It’s been a few days and I already feel as though I have forgotten about what clothes I even put away. All I know is I have a clear view of clothes I actually enjoy wearing, which opens up my mind more when I try to style new things together.

I’m looking to sell everything I’ve retired at insanely cheap prices—within reason, of course. I was thinking of having a studio sale, so if you’re in Montreal in the next few weeks then keep your eyes peeled for more information on that— alternatively I’ve been thinking about selling this stuff online, maybe doing it through my side project Teste, which is an extension of my studio that I’ve been sort of keeping quiet, until recently.

A lot of moving parts in the background these last few years but maybe it’s finally time to come outside again.

Talk soon.

Going through a wardrobe shift and don’t know where to start? Check out some of my past letters that should make this task a little easier:

Today’s letter is filled with great gear I’ve enjoyed looking at this week;

• How to get the new L.L.Bean Japan collection

• Lady White Co. and Kaptain Sunshine is the perfect example of subtle flexing through elite fabrics

• What new staples I’m adding to the spring wardrobe; my new go-to tee, a sweater more people should know about, and other great basics I’m excited about right now.

• A Levi’s collaboration you shouldn’t be sleeping on

• Where I go to shop for jewelry, and how to invest properly in the right pieces for those new to the game.

THE L.L.BEAN JAPAN COLLECTION

L.L.Bean dropped an exclusive Japan Edition collection in America last week and everyone went bonkers over it. Sold out quickly as you can image, but there’s still a way for us to secure some of the items online.

I’m not going to lie though, it’s going to take a little bit of work.

Although the collection flew off the shelves, there’s still a chance to buy it over at Rakuten here. You’ll have to use a proxy service to place your order though—annoying, I know, but those who are willing to put some effort in acquiring their clothes will be rewarded with stuff they enjoy wearing.

I use FromJapan proxy service; very easy and straightforward to use that doesn’t cost that much extra. Good luck!

Subscribe now

Share

LADY WHITE + KAPTAIN SUNSHINE

When two brands that you love come together on a collection, you have no choice but to sit and listen. That’s how I feel about this latest collab with Lady White and Kaptain Sunshine.

To put it simply, this collection is for the people who want simple, luxurious levels of quality that looks lowkey. This isn’t anything insane, but the elite level of fabrics mixed with the right fits all come together to create clothes that you’ll actually feel good in.

The full collection is available at Lady White website here.

A FEW STAPLES FOR SPRING

A spring wardrobe refresh means restocking on essentials like t-shirts, maybe adding a little new sweater or crewneck to the rotation, and just items in between to prepare us for the inevitable summer.

Here are some of the recent things I’ve either picked up or have been looking at for myself recently. A sweater everyone is sleeping on, what might be the tee of the summer, and more:

Read more

In today’s letter I’m taking you shopping with me for some new shoes, collaborations that deserve our attention, exclusive release info for the upcoming Hartcopy Adidas BW Army, returning to the classics, and ending the loafer discourse once and for all.

CONVERSE + NOAH

Starting spring with bright colors and fun patterns; Converse and Noah just dropped a pair of Chuck 70s that is having the menswear bros foaming at the mouth—I get it though, they’re good and in line with the general interest in menswear right now.

I ended up grabbing a pair of the patchwork highs, which I do like a lot, but now I’m thinking I’ve made a mistake because the plaid lows are infinitely better. Oh well, it’s not the end of the world, but I wouldn’t recommend making the same mistake I did.

These are kind of available all over the place, so if you’re not finding your size make sure to check out a store that you know carries Converse.

Plaids are sold out on the Noah website, but I did find both with various sizes available on Lost & Found here, and for my Europeans they are available at BSTN here.

GOING BACK TO THE CLASSICS

It feels like this year is a good time to dust off models we used to rock years ago. Whether that’s classics from Converse, or even the trusted Vans Authentics are all in play this year.

Although the New Balance 475 came around just a few years ago, it’s still reminiscent of the staple New Balance models that would reign supreme over menswear years prior.

I originally slept on the Auralee 475’s and I regret that deeply, but with the upcoming JJJJound 475 collaboration, I’m starting to feel alive again.

As some of you may already know, I’m big on all black shoes, but the yellows are calling my name. I can’t help it—I got pants in that exact shade of green as styled above, and that’s all the convincing I need to go with that colorway.

The JJJJound + New Balance 475 is releasing next week.

HARTCOPY + ADIDAS BW ARMY

We got exclusive information regarding where to buy the new colors of the Hartcopy + Adidas BW Army that you’ll want to hear about because these flew off the shelves when they dropped their first colorway in 2024.

Read more

You can join our community chat here.

Weekly recommendations on new releases and good stuff to wear here.

Subscribe now

A lot of people know Joy Crookes as a singer-songwriter that makes incredible tunes. She’s also very obsessed with Arsenal, cooks absolutely insane meals that I’ve had the pleasure of tasting, gets fits off consistently, but most importantly, she’s just an absolutely amazing person to be around.

Joy just released her second album, Juniper. It’s awesome and you should listen to it if you haven’t already. I am still ripping through her first album, Skin, on a regular basis though — When You Were Mine and Trouble are absolute classics.

When I first spent time with her in London, Joy showed me some of the clothes she’s been obsessed with. After that experience, I knew we had to get her on the blog at some point.

In today’s letter we finally got together to talk about the stuff she holds close to her heart. Enjoy!

Words by Joy Crookes:

READ MORE: